Biking Through Bali

“Cycle Downhill and See the Real Bali” read the brochure for an eco-cycling tour we signed up for through the recommendation of our host’s wife. We thought it would be a nice way to spend our 19th anniversary and see some of the surrounding countryside. While the van was an hour late, the rest of the day turned out to be spot on with all they promised -- from a mountain top breakfast of banana pancakes and fresh fruit, to a tour of a local coffee plantation, rice paddies and a Balinese family compound.

It was a small group with three guides, a driver and a friendly Australian couple on holiday. Before picking up the bikes, we stopped off to learn about various local plants and the coffee making process, including “the most expensive coffee in the world.” Luwak Coffee is made from the red coffee cherry that travels first through the digestive tract of the Luwak, or the civet cat. Sounds gross, but the coffee was actually quite smooth.

After amping up on three kinds of coffee and ginseng tea, we hit the road through the picturesque countryside scattered with lush rice paddies and a few ancient “Avatar” Banyan trees. Beautiful, smiling children ran out to the road trying to get a “high five” from us -- not always a safe move on our part while biking on potholed roads and crumbling concrete. Like many developing countries, infrastructure and safety standards don‘t seem to be a huge priority in Bali, but everyone seems very happy regardless. Families of three ride on motorbikes without helmets. Trash litters the countryside and irrigation channels. Still, despite these challenges and lack of things we might consider very important, the Balinese are a very happy, friendly people. And they keep their homes and stoops very neat and tidy with primitive but functional straw brooms.

The Balinese culture is quite charming and balanced, actually. Today for instance, we learned that the daily offerings left on doorsteps each morning are a way of giving thanks and blessing to the Earth. The delicate baskets hold incense and flowers and maybe a little rice and other pieces of food like coconut or crackers. By the next day, most of the offering has been consumed by Mother Nature -- maybe ants, maybe one of many local dogs or chickens. It’s quite a lovely version of recycling actually.

Family structures and practices are also symbiotic. While 22 people might live in one family compound, they are able to coexist by having different kitchens for each nuclear family. The livestock -- which is their version of “the bank” -- lives behind the house and the family temple is next door for worship on the lunar cycle. There is also a room designated for special occasions like teeth filing (yes, when kids come of age they have their canines filed down as a sort of rite of passage to adulthood and step toward human perfection), births and weddings. A cremation ceremony is also a huge community event every five years, marking the last step of a journey for a person’s soul. In the local village nearby, 32 bodies will be cremated on July 14 and the ashes put it urns and returned to the ocean. Too bad we will not be here to witness such an event.

Well, it appears I really need to wrap this up. It’s just all so fascinating! We’re chilling in the room for awhile before deciding whether to venture into yet another afternoon downpour for dinner. Exchanged emails with the Australians in the van so maybe “Down Under” will be next -- Anna’s top travel pick anyway.