Perusing "The White City" of Arequipa

It has been a few days since our last blog so lots to catch up on. Going back to our first full day in Arequipa, we had our first taste of an altitude climb. This is known as the “white city,” after the color of the sillar rock of which many buildings here are constructed. Located in southern Peru, it is the second largest city in the country with about 1 million people. More interesting, is that the people here really pride themselves on being more intellectual than their Lima countrymen and resent that others think everything happens in Lima.

The geography here is stunning. Flanked by an amazing cathedral that stretches the length of the Plaza, the bustling, taxi-heavy center sits in the shadow of El Misti volcano which towers above at 5800 meters. This city is not unfamiliar with seismic activity. Churches and buildings have been destroyed and rebuilt for centuries and more than one person has told us “we’re due for another big one.” We try not to think about that part.

The city is a jumping off point for tours to the nearby Colca Canyon (more later), but the centerpiece is the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, “a city within a city.” This working convent has been a round since 1579, but it was only opened to the public in 1970 for economical needs of the nuns to cover earthquake restoration costs. We hired an English-speaking guide to lead us through the history and cloisters of the convent, which is quite bright and cheery, painted in tangerine and Mediterranean blue.

Traditionally, the nuns were the second-born daughters of rich noble families. They entered when they were 12 or 13 and basically were in seclusion for four years, praying or sleeping in their dark rooms for 20 hours. Their meals were even brought to them and served through their window. After they completed their novice training, they had a choice to stay or leave the convent but doing the latter would certainly shame their families so most stayed.

Granted, these women did not go without the finer luxuries of Spanish nobility. The richer ones had china, a piano and even servants. Priceless artwork donated by the families lines the walls of the convent and even a special art gallery. Sometimes sisters or relatives were allowed to share a room, and eventually the Pope ordered they become more of a community, turning their chapel into a kitchen and forcing them out of their rooms to pray together.

Today the nuns are self-sufficient and about 20 of them live off-site of the public tour area in the convent. They make soaps, hand creams and candy, which is sold in the local gift shops. They are also now allowed to go outside into town and mix with the rest of the world. We saw a few on the street. They are of the  Dominican order, which is characterized by lots of prayer to right the wrongs of the world.